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  A Shoe Lover's Guide to Paris
John Lobb

This is the Holy Land, the shop that shoe lovers all over the world dream about. Now owned by the luxury goods company Hermès, the firm was originally created by a Brit named Lobb from Cornwall, who started making shoes in Australia for workers in the gold mines. He devised a shoe with a special heel where workers could hide little gold nuggets. In 1850, back in England, he became the official shoemaker to the royal family. In 1902, he opened his boutique in Paris, and 25 years ago Hermès bought the brand. The shoes are made to measure, if you wish, or you can buy "regular" pairs. The price of a John Lobb vintage: 5,300 F (about $900). But if you own a pair of John Lobb and don't have time to take care of them, Hermès will send a shoeshine person to your door. The shoes are worth a look even if you're more interested in sneakers. They are minor works of art. You can also make an appointment and visit the charming Hermès museum. It's open to anyone, by prearrangement. Founded by the grandfather of the present CEO, the museum is dedicated to traveling. You can also visit the beautiful ateliers where Hermès handbags and saddles are made.
Address: 24, rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Tel:
01.42.65.24.45

Berluti

If you go here, you might well run into some of the world's most powerful men, such as Bernard Arnault, CEO of the luxury products group LVMH. Or feel the ghosts of illustrious former patrons: filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini, Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau or François Mitterrand, who was a client of the house for many years. Last year the company, established in 1895 by Alexander Berluti, an Italian immigrant, became a household name when it was revealed that former French foreign minister Roland Dumas had purchased a pair of shoes there for 90,000 F ($15,000). Berluti is a pilgrimage every shoe lover must make. Its original store, at 26, rue Marbeuf, 8e, is a landmark. It's worth the trip especially at night, when the windows are full of light and the shoes seem to be actors in a play. Tel: 01.43.59.51.10 Web site: www.berluti.com

J.M. Weston

This brand's story gives a revealing glimpse into French culture. Its customers are an interesting blend of the chic French bourgeoisie and African sapeurs--people of modest means who spend it all on great-looking clothes. Most think their favorite shoemaker is English, when in fact "J.M. Weston" is the brainchild of Eugène Blanchard, a shoemaker in Limoges. When he launched the brand in 1927, Blanchard felt it would sound more exotic than his own name. More than 170 operations go into the making of each shoe.
My favorite store in Paris: 3, blvd de la Madeleine, 1er, Tel: 01.42.61.00.80  jmweston.net

Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche


My sentimental favorite. Le Bon Marché is a wonderful institution; I always feels that as long as it is here, in its Left Bank neighbohood, all's right with the world. Tucked away amid the area's religious institutions, it is a meeting ground for well-born but modest French families. The building, which looks sort of like a huge pièce montée (elaborately decorated cake), was constructed in 1852 for Aristide Boucicaut, an entrepreneur so famous he has his own metro station named after him. Right after the defeat of 1870 and the occupation of Paris by Prussian troops, Boucicaut created the first mail order catalogue. Today, Le Bon Marché has become a more upscale Galeries Lafayette, catering to le bon goût (good taste). The little department store often has wonderful exhibitions--on wedding dresses, on opera, on Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. There was even a very original exhibit entitled "Chaussures et Cinéma." Its épicerie, with 30,000 different products, is one of the citiy's best-kept secrets. Think of it as an Ali Baba's cave of fine and interesting items. Last September, Le Bon Marché opened one of the best shoe departments in the city.
Address: 24, rue de Sèvres, 7e, Tel: 01.44.39.80.00


Christian Louboutin

This man is to shoes what Picasso was to painting or Nabokov to writing. Only 36, Louboutin makes shoes for Princess Caroline of Monaco, Catherine Deneuve and socialite Sao Schlumberger. Addicts of his shoes can recognize each other all over the world: Christian Louboutin shoes all have red soles, a trait that has become his logo. The young designer, who cites as sources of inspiration Gustave Flaubert and Jean Cocteau, works for the biggest names in fashion. His store is a delight in itself. It is in the lovely passage Véro Dodat, in the 1st arrondissement.
Address: 19, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1er, Tel: 01.42.36.05.31.

 

Le Jour et l'Heure.

If you're looking for slippers fit for Cinderella herself, try Le Jour et l'Heure. Their chaussons (slippers) in kilims, a sort of oriental rug tapestry, make you feel as if you're walking on clouds.
Address: 6, rue du Dragon, 6e, Tel: 01.42.22.96.11

 

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