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Paris' New Restaurants

The French have this unique concept of "la rentrée". It is this particular time after the long May and June weekends and the lazy summer months, when everyone is trying to refocus on the year ahead. Yet, there is a sweetness in the air which makes it hard for a few more weeks to fully take work seriously. One can still sit at the terrace of cafes and have long lunches outside. La rentrée - that French Indian summer - lasts until mid October, although everyone would give a different definition of this time between summer and the rainy months. Here are several new Paris restaurants which will mark the rentrée.
Nobu. French television star Jean-Luc Delarue and his partner, Hubert Boukobza, already creators of the nearby Korova - a super "BoBo" restaurant - have partnered with Robert DeNiro and Nobuyuki Matsuhisa to open the Paris branch of the famous Japanese restaurant. Excellent cuisine (with some curious Peruvian dishes) with good service but expensive. About 100 euros per person. Valet parking, which is a mustin this very busy neighborhood near the Champs Elysees. 15, rue Marbeuf. 75008. 01 56 89 53 53. Mo Franklin Roosevelt.

Le Comptoir du Bouillon

This is the annex to the magnificient "Bouillon Racine", a landmark bistrot. Le Comptoir serves great "cuisine du Nord", for a change: sea food with beer, delicious French fries, salmon stuffed with fennel, marinated mackerel. Delicious and cheap. No reservation. What else can one ask? Also take out. 3, rue Racine. 75006. 01 44 32 15 60 Mo Odéon.

Thym et Romarin.

For a long time, chef Bruno Gensdarmes was the partner and student of great chef Guy Savoy. His bistrot de l'Etoile (rue Lauriston) is among our very favorite Paris tables. His new address promises to be equally wonderful. Gensdarmes' vegetable carpaccio, his roast chicken with mashed potatoes with olive oil and his "nougat glacé" are a little corner of heaven. Only drawback: too busy. 73Bis,ave Niel. 75017. 01 42 27 87 34. Mo Pereire.

Cabaret.

This is Las Vegas in Paree. 100 employees, a bar, a discotheque, a restaurant. Cabaret is the new venture from the king of Paris nights, the man who owns The Queen, Castel, le Bus Palladium. In the elegant white underground space, the restaurant serves a cuisine influenced by Italian, French and Asian cuisines. Don't expect the culinary experience of a lifetime, but it is quite good. Good service. Valet parking. 2, place du Palais-Royal. 75001. 01 58 62 56 25. Mo Palais Royal

Prunier.

This is one of Paris mythical places. For generations it was a quiet, expensive, bourgeois, good seafood place. Onassis liked to come here often. Now Yves Saint-Laurent's partner, Pierre Bergé, has bought the restaurant. It's reborn as a caviar house. Very chic and expensive. 656 for the spoonful of caviar. The decor of cast iron and ceramics has landmark protection. The menu offers seafood dishes. Superb service. 16, ave Victor Hugo. 75016. 01 44 17 35 85. Mo Etoile.

Il Palazzo.

The decor is beautiful and the Italian 'carte' is also one of the best new surprises in the city. Great green veggie lasagna (with fava beans, peas, asparagus), the veal rib marinated with anchovies, is quite something. Probably the best new table this "rentrée". 7, rue de l'Echelle. 75001. 01 42 60 91 20. Mo Palais Royal.

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