Loir Valley

Regional Information

The Moulin de Croix-Val is in the heart of the Val de Loir (without an "e"; the river is a tributary to La Loire). It is one of France's most beautiful and peaceful regions of vineyards and villages carved out of rock, 40 minutes north of Tours and 2.5 hours southwest of Paris by car (or 42 minutes if you take the TGV, which stops at Vendôme-Villiers). The river gives its name to many villages along its banks: Villiers sur le Loir, le Gué du Loir, Montoire sur le Loir, Couture sur le Loir, la Chartre sur le Loir. The Loir is a gentle river, almost shy, romantic, whereas la Loire is impetuous, wild, and unpredictable.

Sixteenth century romantic poet Pierre de Ronsard is the soul of the region. He was born in Couture and lived in Croix-Val, in a landmark manor house which is right across from the Moulin. Ronsard wanted to be buried on the île Verte, a little island in the middle of the Loir, in Couture. Many of his poems celebrate the little valley where he lived from 1566 to 1585.

The Moulin de Croix-Val, which can be found on Michelin map No. 64, is 2.5 miles from the little village of Ternay, which has a bakery/grocery on the village plaza. Once a week, in the summer, there is also a small organic market on the plaza.

Montoire, 8 miles away, is the main town (pop. 5,000). This lovely town has an open air market twice a week. Here one can buy newspapers, rent bikes or go to the café.

Lavardin, across the Loir from Montoire, is considered one of France's most beautiful villages (FRANCE Magazine, Summer 1998 issue). The village is dominated by the ruins of a 12th-century donjon (dungeon).

Information

Office du Tourisme de Vendôme. Hotel du Bellay, Le Saillant, BP 34. 41101 Vendôme Cedex. Tel.: 02 54 77 05 07. Fax: 02 54 73 20 81. Very helpful. Will help with hiking and biking trails.

Vallée du Loir: This organization promotes the area. Publishes a booklet with tons of infos. 3, blvd Levasseur, 72000 Le Mans. Tel: 02 43 23 44 55. Fax: 02 43 28 39 21.

Canoe Rentals

Restaurants

Le Cheval Rouge: 1 place Foch. Montoire. 02 54 85 07 05. One of the best tables of the region. Good traditional French cuisine. The Jasnière blanc 84 (local white wine) is excellent with fish from the Loir.

Chez Maryvonne. In Trôo. Tel: 02 54 72 51 23. Good simple cuisine. Every day except Monday.

Le Cheval Blanc. In Trôo. Tel: 02 54 72 58 22. At the foot of the hill and near the river, the decor is not fancy but the food is good.

Wine

Le Jasnières: 8, place de la République. La Chartre sur le Loir. Tel: 02 43 44 40 44. This wine bar with a few tables on the place is the ideal place to discover the Jasnières, the local wine. Best with rillettes, a local speciality, made with pork.

Sites of Interest Near the Moulin de Croix-Val

Lavardin (8mi. from the house): one of the most beautiful villages of France, with its old houses built in the white stone called tuf, its gothic bridge over the Loir, the remains of its medieval castle, and its exceptional Roman church with frescoes.

Montoire sur le Loir: day dream while looking at the river from the bridge and then go and see Saint-Gilles, an 11th-century chapel with remarkable murals.

Trôo: One of France's most beautiful troglodyte villages, with a stunning view over the Loir and the valley. The chapel Saint-Martin, built in 1050, is superb. Every summer, the chapel hosts a music festival.

Couture sur Loir: the Manoir de la Possonnière is Ronsard's birthplace. It is open to the public. The poet's parents' grave with their delicate scultpure, is in the little church of the village.

Three private gardens are open to the public:

Roc en Tuf: a manor built against a cliff of tuf, with a lovely turn of the century garden, deigned around the little river, La Cendrine. Contact: Madame G. Stehli. Tel: 02 54 72 57 03

Le Parc Botanique de la Fosse: France most remarkable private arboretum. 50 acres with thousands of species of trees brought from all over the world by the family of the present owner. Tel: 02 54 85 38 63. Near Trôo.

Le Domaine de Sasnières, in Saint Armand Longpré. A lovely manor on a pond with an interesting garden (pictured at left). Tel: 02 54 82 92 34.

Open Air Markets

Vendôme: All day Friday and Sunday morning.
Montoire: Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning.
La Chartre: Thursday morning.

ALSO

Les Semailles: 16, place de la République. La Chartre. Tel: 02 43 44 30 17. This very elegant store sells everything - from gorgeous pottery to linen skirts to cider. Everything made on the premises. You can also taste on the terrace their delicious tarte aux pommes.

Hugues Géré: This potter is housed in a cave. His pots and pitchers made with the earth he finds on the banks of the Loir are drying just outside his cave. Saint Rimay (near Montoire). Tel: 02 54 85 06 28.