Raphaël: Grâce et Beauté.

This is really a once in a lifetime exhibition. The Musée du Luxembourg is presenting an exceptional exhibition of 10 paintings by Raphaël, and many drawings and prints. Among the paintings of this genius born at the end of the 15th century in Urbino, the strikingly modern "La Fornarina". The young woman, the painter's lover, is showing her breasts and is looking at the viewer with an air of defiance.

Musée du Luxembourg. Until Jan 27. Open daily except Mon. 01 42 34 25 95. Mo Odéon, Luxembourg, Vavi

Le New Morning

New York had the Blue Note, Paris has the New Morning. It is probably the best jazz club in the world, run by an extraordinary lady, Mrs. Fahri, an empress, born in Egypt. Her club is celebrating its 20th year of existence and is staging a series of great concerts, like Nils Landgren and his Funk Unit.

New Morning 7-9, rue des Petites Ecuries. 75010. Mo Chateau d'Eau. 01 45 25 51 41.

A Mi-Chemin.

One of the best Parisian bistros. Recently, Le Figaro had it among its 12 best bistros where you can have a very good meal for 200F or less. The neighborhood around the rue Daguerre is great and if the decor is nothing to write home about, the food is excellent and the wine list really super. You have to be patient, the service is nice, but seems overwhelmed most of the time.

31, rue Boulard. 75014. Mo Denfert Rochereau. 01 45 39 56 45. Closed Sun and Mon.

Graphismes

Graphic artists are everywhere: they design CD covers, posters, magazines, book covers, videos, etc. the Bibliothèque Nationale de France is celebrating them with a huge show. 200 designers from all over the world. An occasion to discover the neighborhood (and to have a delicious risotto at the nearby Batofar). Until Nov. 10.

Quai François Mauriac. 75013. 01 53 79 53 79. Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun noon-7pm. Free.

Japan Design, nouvelle génération.

The Galerie Via, which has been sponsoring, helping, financing score of young talents for ages (with money from the French government), is presenting a very interesting show of many of the most interesting Japanese designers. Very inspired and inspiring.

Galerie VIA. 33, ave Daumesnil. 75012. 01 46 28 11 11. Until Oct. 28. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat., 10:30am-6:30pm, Sun, 11am-6pm.

Nan Goldin

This is one of the big shows of the "rentrée". The American photographer is showing 300 prints, 200 never shown before, at the Pompidou Center. Goldin is the chronicler of the underside of America, since her well-known Ballad of Sexual Dependency. Her friends are junkies, cross dressers, people who live on the margins of respectable society. Until December 10th.

Pompidou Center. Mo Châtelet, Rambuteau, Les Halles. 10. 01 44 78 12 33.