1. Walk in the suspended garden.

The 4.5 km long Viaduc des Arts, 9 meters above street level, is one of the most wonderful experiences one can have in the city on a sunny day. Starts métro Bastille, avenue Daumesnil. Ends: rue Edouard-Lartet, in the 12th arr.

2. Vin des Rues.

Have some saucisson and a glass of wine in photographer Robert Doisneau's favorite bistro. You can also sit for a meal at the "table d'hôte", right in the kitchen. Vin des Rues. 21, rue Boulard. 75014. 01 43 21 82 60.

3. Hôtel du Quai Voltaire.

Spend the night in the room where Charles Baudelaire wrote his epic poem, Les Fleurs du Mal. Room 56. Hôtel du Quai Voltaire. 19, quai Voltaire. 75007. 01 42 61 50 91

4. Listen to poetry at the Bar des Lucioles.

If you read one poem, the patron will offer you a free drink. Tuesday evenings, 10:30pm-12:30am. Bar des Lucioles. 102, Blvd de Ménilmontant.75020. 01 40 33 10 24.

5. Saint-Sulpice.

Explore the église Saint-Sulpice to find the mysterious "meridian". The meaning of the straight line made of copper, on the floor of the church, remains a mystery up to this day. Eglise Saint-Sulpice. Place Saint-Sulpice. 75006.

6. Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie (MAAO).

Travel to Africa and back in time, with a visit to the soon to close Musée des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie (MAAO). In a couple of years, the new Musée des Arts Premiers, near the Eiffel tower, will open its doors and the magical MAAO will close forever. 293, ave Daumesnil. 75012. 01 44 74 84 80

7. Amélie Poulain's café.

Spend time in Amélie Poulain's café, the Bar-Tabac des 2 Moulins, in Montmartre. The café is an authentic 1950's bistro and the desserts are home made. 15, rue Lepic. 75018.

8. Explore Paris' best johns.

Our top 5:

• The Purpl'ace: it is not the pink light which falls on you while you are sitting on the loo but the one way mirror which allows you to see what others are doing in the toilettes. 20, rue Daval. 75011.
  
  
• Café Beaubourg, designed by architect Christian de Pottzamparc. The bathroom is installed in the three-century-old cave. 100, rue Saint-Martin. 75004.
  
  
• Les Grandes Marches. This brasserie which belongs to the inevitable Costes brothers, has the nicest loo, designed by Elizabeth de Portzamparc. 6, place de la Bastille. 75012.
  
  
• Le Train bleu. These toilettes of the Gare de Lyon's restaurant, are a historical landmark. 20, Blvd Diderot. 75012.

9. Have a massage to relieve the stress at the No Street Café. Every evening from 8:00 to midnight, you can get a massage or some bottled oxygen Massage. 25-27, rue Balard. 75015. 01 45 58 45 68.

10. Le robinier

Pay homage to the oldest tree in Paris. The "robinier" in front of the church Saint-Julien le Pauvre is 400 years old. It was planted around 1601 by Jean Robin. Square Viviani, quai de Montebello. 75005.

11. Hôtel Rafaël.

It is the meeting place of many of the city's beautiful people. The bar, run by Bertrand, the head barman, is an institution. But as soon as the weather allows it, hit for the rooftop restaurant where you can have breakfast or a drink. One of the city's best views. 17, ave Kleber. 75016. 01 53 64 32 00.

12. Pierre Hermé.

2001 has been Pierre Hermé's year. He burst on the Parisian scene in the very last days of August and since then his patisserie, near the place Saint Sulpice, which looks like a Japanese designer's store, is always packed. His Ispahan, a patisserie which tastes like a rose, has become a cult. 72, rue Bonaparte. 75006.

13. Marché d'Aligre.

The only daily flee market left in the city. Still lots of good finds. Place d'Aligre. 75012.

14. La Samaritaine.

This somewhat second class citizen in the land of Paris department stores, has one of the best rooftop terraces in the city, although many people - thank God - are unaware of it. You can also eat at the more expensive restaurant, Le Toupary (note the play on word: Toupary = Tout Paris!). 23, quai du Louvre. 75001. 01 40 41 29 29.

15. Le Sainte-Marthe and Le Galopin.

Travel to Marseille without leaving the 10th arrondissement. On the days when the sun is starting to warm again, the place Sainte Marthe, off the trendy canal Saint-Martin, feels like the Mediterranean city. Some of the best places to enjoy its special quality of light and quiet: Le Sainte-Marthe. For its great tapas. 32, rue Ste-Marthe. 75010. 01 44 84 36 96 Le Galopin. Started by two ladies who got tired of teaching. The food is what the French call "familiale" and inexpensive. A real Parisian place. 34, rue Ste-Marthe. 75010. 01 53 19 19 55

16. Grande Galerie de l'Evolution.

Discover the evolution of life (and many other things) at the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution. The gallery is to Paris what the Museum of natural history is to New Yorkers. It was redone less than a decade ago and is an enchantment. You can see how Paris was in prehistory times or discover animals of the rainforest. Museum national d'histoire naturelle. Jardin des Plantes. 36, rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire. 75005. 01 40 79 30 00.

17. Learn about the secret world of free masons. Visit the museum of the main freemason order that has been playing an important role in Europe for over three centuries. The museum starts with the Middle Ages and takes visitors until now. Essential to understand part of the history of France. Musée du Grand Orient de France. 16, rue Cadet. 75009. 75009. Tues-Sat, 2pm-6pm.

18. Bibliothèque historique de la ville de Paris.

This elegant 16th century building is dedicated to the history of Paris and its area. In its collections: periodicals, photography, and manuscripts. Hôtel d'Angoulême-Lamoignon. 24, rue Pavée. 75004. 01 44 59 29 40. Mo Saint Paul.

19. Walk in Victor Hugo's footsteps:

30, rue du Dragon. 75006. In March 1822, Hugo moves into a tiny apartment on the top floor.
9, rue Jean-Gougeon. 75008. The Hugo family moves to the Right bank, near the Champs-Elysées. The poet knows no one will bother him. The area is almost deserted.
6, place des Vosges. 75003. Hugo moves there to be closer to the working class neighborhood of La Bastille.
50, ave Victor Hugo. 75016. When Hugo comes back from his 16-year exile, he moves to the avenue d'Eylau. The government changes the name in his honor. This is the poet's last address. He dies on May 22, 1885.

20. Explore Africa on the Seine.

The large African community in Paris has created its own universe. Try La Jungle, one of its best restaurants. 56, rue d'Argout. 75002. 01 40 41 03 45. Mo Sentier. Daily.

21. Bréhat.

Escape Paris and find refuge in paradise, on one of Brittany's many islands. Try Bréhat. This tiny island, 10 minutes from Paimpol, among 86 smaller islands
of granite rock. Because of the Gulf Stream nearby, Bréhat is covered with flowers all year long. To get there: vedettes de Bréhat (02 96 55 86 99) Where to stay: Hôtel Bellevue. Port-Clos. 02 96 20 00 05.